It’s also very important that you avoid getting drips. You also need the indoor temperature to be normal. This can be done with compressed air or a shop vac. But with a satin poly, you want to stir it really well before using it every time. Even if there’s no finish on the floor, you should sand it. At that point, the finish is fully cured and the protection is at 100%. (I don’t always do this, but it is the best way to remove the final dust). It could be anywhere from a week, to a full 30 days. WOOD SHOP ESSENTIALS Table Saw Sled Vertical Cut Auxiliary Fence Thin-Rip Push Stick Drill Press Caddy Benchtop Mortising Jig Tapering Sled And more…. You can read more about Adam here. Dust and poly don’t mix – well, they shouldn’t anyway. When applying a gloss finish, there’s really nothing you have to do to the polyurethane itself. That’s why for the most part I try to avoid using nice brushes (if at all possible). The best start strategy requires you to sand your floor before applying any new layer. Once you finish with sanding, use a clean cloth to wipe the floor well. Varnish is a bit more flexible (important with the changing humidity levels outside), and it has superior water resistant properties. First take your poly foam brush, and dip it at least half-way into the poly. When someone asks me, how do you apply oil based polyurethane to hardwood floors that won’t be very time consuming and effort demanding, I tend to give them these drying tips. But as for me, time is limited, so I prefer to save time. Just lightly sand and it should quickly feel smooth to the touch, especially after coat #3 and beyond. This means it dries much faster than regular poly. To do so simply move tool from wet edge to the finish. This really applies to more than just the bottom. So it can be worthwhile to set up some additional lighting if your work area is poorly lit. Not to mention, sanding will make the oil-based polyurethane stick much better. If you need help learning how to stain wood, there’s a link for you at the end of this article. To expedite the curing, keep the project in a low humidity, warm environment. This will stir up dust in the air and it will no doubt end up on your wet finish. You must wipe off excess against the can’s rim. If you go too fast, it simply will not lay down evenly, and you can restart the row, just go slower. But for the best all-around finish for indoor furniture and shop projects, nothing beats a good polyurethane. Your email address will not be published. This means a durable top coat is a critical part of building quality projects. Don’t brush over areas that have started to dry. I will keep my non-scientific opinions to myself, but I will share my methods with the world! The fumes from the oil-based polyurethane are toxic and you need fresh air. And this way you will only get meaningful amount onto the applicator. Most projects will be ready for normal use in 24 hours. Because polyurethane is clear, you can only see where you’ve applied it by looking for the glare in the wet polyurethane, against the previous dried coat. And the faster the finish dries, the less chance it has at picking up any additional dust particles. BestChoiceMakers is a reader-supported Website/Blog. The main benefit of a good polyurethane finish on wood is it’s superior protective qualities. More coats of polyurethane will give you more protection, but will also give you more shine and “stick”. Let it dry at least 12 hours and check that it’s basically dry to the touch. This means when you’re done, if you did it correctly, you will not see any streaks or row-lines. Quick Tip! Various shop jigs, table saw sleds, and tricks of the trade have served him well. And don’t forget about ventilation. And that way there will be no marks left. A good rule of thumb is to assume a curing finish is uncured until the 30 day mark, then it’s ready for full use or delivery.
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